Aishwarya Ashok with her camera
walk around cities ✷

☺︎ @walk.around.cities

Cities aren’t checklists.

Some of my favourite moments in a city have very little to do with the ‘places to see’. It’s usually an old doorway I almost walked past. A ferry moving at its own pace. The passion fruit I picked up from a tree that tasted yummy. Or a street slowly waking up while the rest of the city is still figuring out its morning.

That’s why I walk. I love the feeling of turning into a lane, sometimes with a plan, sometimes with no real plan, and coming out with a story about a person, a craft, a building, a plate of food, or some everyday ritual I knew nothing about an hour earlier.

Stories from the walks

what this street remembers
Chennai

Old shop boards

Old shop boards make me think about all the invisible hands behind a street. A faded edge. A letter repaired in a different shade.

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what this street remembers
Madras

Buildings shaped by climate

I’ve always been fascinated with Madras’ Indo-Saracenic buildings, and how the humid coastal air shaped the way they were designed.

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one object, one city
Hampi to Darasuram

When postmarks tell stories

I picked up philately recently, for one very specific reason. I wanted to collect the little pictures some post offices press over the stamps.

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what this street remembers
Many cities

Stories in stained glass

I’ve always looked at stained-glass windows for their colour. But this time, I found myself wondering what actually makes them glow.

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city rituals
Landour, Uttarakhand

A letter from Landour

At a quiet bend in Landour, an old post office continues to hold its place. For this story, I wrote and posted a letter from the same corner.

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what this street remembers
Langza, Spiti

A village carrying an ocean

I went to Langza expecting snow-covered mountains and the giant Buddha. But what stayed with me was the ancient ocean hiding beneath my feet.

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emotional geography
Uttarakhand

A pahadi soundscape

Just Uttarakhand as it sounds: temple bells, rustling leaves, birdsong, footsteps along mountain paths. Sound on. Stay a little longer.

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what this street remembers
Tharangambadi, Tamil Nadu

The town with two names

How does a town called ‘the shore where the waves sing’ almost disappear from our maps?

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what this street remembers
Deira, Dubai

Old Dubai by abra

What did Dubai feel like before the towers? Maybe one way to answer that is to cross the Creek by abra and enter Deira.

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the hands of a city
Udaipur

The miniature artist

Some art forms make you slow down just to understand the hand behind them.

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what this street remembers
Chettinad

The face of a house

Mogappu is the ‘face’ of a Chettinad house, and once you start noticing it, every house begins to feel different.

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the hands of a city
Kumartuli, Kolkata

Kumartuli before Pujo

Anyone engrossed deeply in an art form makes me feel inspired. Walking into Kumartuli was like making a way into artist heaven.

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emotional geography
Chitkul, Himachal

Chitkul, through a song

Yes, this place is a beauty. Yet I’ve been pondering on the song itself, ever since I read about what it means.

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city rituals
Amritsar

Amritsar food lanes

Before you turn a couple of corners walking, you’ve already stuffed yourself with jalebis, lassi, and kulchas, and still feel like you could use some more.

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city rituals
Kolkata

Calcutta bylanes

The very roads where early morning scenes feel like ritual. Rickshaw pullers, old uncles with newspapers, aunties drying their pickles.

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the hands of a city
Sanganer, Jaipur

Jaipur blue pottery

The craft that rules the entire town picks its name from the striking cobalt blue of the art. That’s Jaipur’s dear Blue Pottery.

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the hands of a city
Chettinad

Athangudi tiles

Even today, each tile is handmade with fresh dyes, a metal-cut stencil, and a cement and soil mixture. The whole process takes close to 15 days.

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one object, one city
Hikkim, Spiti

The highest post office

Letters from a 14,567 feet high post office in Spiti. The urge to collect the postcards and write a few lines from deep down your heart.

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what this street remembers
Darasuram, Tamil Nadu

Airavateshwara

Less fanfare, less chaos, less crowd, but more to take in. Your eyes just bask in the grandeur.

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emotional geography
Chintamani, Hampi

By the Tungabhadra

Have you ever sat by a flowing river, letting go of any thoughts, and simply just exist? Chintamani gave me that.

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city rituals
North Malabar

Theyyam

Watching the dancing gods of north Malabar was truly an eye-opening moment.

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city rituals
Fontainhas, Goa

The poder’s bread

Growing up in a Tamil household, I was used to newspaper and milk delivered on cycles. But freshly baked bread? Totally new.

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👋 on foot, in Madras

Walk with me in Madras

Every so often I organize a walk through Madras on foot: Mylapore’s lanes, old shop boards, buildings that were built for this heat. Small group, slow pace, lots of stopping. The next one is announced on Instagram.

What does your city still do?

Tell me about a street in your city I should walk. I read every message, and some of them turn into walks.

aishwaryaashok@gmail.com